Deus ex Machina 9ft & Single Logfest

Since I started surfing a couple of years ago, I have dreamed of going along to this babe fest log fest. Now, I'm absolutely stoked I'll be there next week to see what all the fuss is about. And it's looking superdooper fun!

When Amber and I turn up on Friday night, we'll go to the art opening featuring Drew Wellman's work then watch this doco projected onto a bed sheet and have a coupla beers.


Come Hell or High Water Trailer from Woodshed Films on Vimeo.

Once they have us all frothy about body surfing there will be a comp the following morning - 'gentleman's rules'. I have my saucy Neon ready to go, but I can tell you right now, I'll be the one on the beach watching the antics, not making a fool of myself in the beachies. I have alllllllll week to do that.

One of the legends of surfing, Bob McTavish, will be hosting a Shapers Forum in the afternoon. I expect my brain will scramble trying to understand what these fellas will be talking about, but I'm going to do my darnedest.

Mr Bob McTavish at work

The final day of the festivus is the 9ft & Single Log Fest itself followed by an awards ceremony and a shindig in the evening. Yew! By this stage Amber and I hope to have met some lovely peeps who will be kind enough to pass on some advice on where to go to next to find some friendly waves for us lil' ladies to frolic in for the week. And give a red hot go and surfing our arses off too.

Neon Wetsuits & Salt Gypsy - Yew!

Woohoo! Totally stoked to be contributing to one of my fave surf blogs. Check out my post on the launch of the Neon Wetsuits website here.. and order yourself a saucy lil' Neon number, stat.

Winter is coming!

Winter? I'm ready!

Winter is coming! And along with digging out my favourite op shop woollens and 4/3 comes the bunkering down in Camp Rad consuming Game of Thrones and Friday Night Lights then digesting the episodes over a slow-cooked meal. Stoked.

But unfortunately the weekends haven't delivered the delightful wintry conditions of the past two years so I've been rolling out of bed, pulling on the ugg boots and searching for a wave, only to come home with the paper tucked under my arm and waiting for low tide at Point Radknight.

On Sunday I saw old-saltie-of-the-headstand, Rodney, in the line-up and told him how I've befuddled my osteo with a 'mini-pec' (my terminology, not the osteo's) injury that has been agonising over the past month. Rodney said, 'Well, I've always got something wrong - my shoulder, my back, my neck, it goes on. But you know what, Gill? Never let that stop you.'

I heeded Rodney's advice and ended up having an awesome session and even taught myself a new trick. As I was heading back to shore I looked up into the carpark and saw Rodney watching me. He gave me the thumbs up and waved.

Clear eyes. Full heart. Can't lose.

Maddog heading out into messy 5ft at Winki.

On Fiji time

Ready to jump in but where are the waves? (Thanks @EmmaJapan for the Instagram pic!)

I've just done a delightful quick trip to Barefoot Island in Fiji - 5 days of reading, eating, sleeping and avoiding a head-on collision with a huge manta ray (clearly the highlight). But sadly, no surfing. It was amazing to be screen-free for a few days but of course as soon as I got back I trawled through instagram and facebook to catch-up on what I'd been missing out on.

Alana was in Fiji, too, it seems. Looking good. And so were the waves.

Next time!

Dream surf van / wagon / truck - number 23

How stoked would you be if you owned this well-loved little wagon? Stoked as the man driving it, I'd say. Spotted on the Mornington Peninsula on a 35 degree day, he was parked on a grassy knoll, maybe to catch a sea breeze. I was driving past, gave him the thumbs up and asked if I could snap him.

'Me? Or the car?' he said.

'Definitely both,' I replied.

What a man. What a car.

Neon Wetsuits - bringing more sauciness to the waves

Neon wetsuits! Pow! Pow!

Just when I think I find the perfect wetsuit, another one pops up. Ladies, keep 'em coming!

I had a breakthrough on the w'end and from now and forever more Point Roadknight will be called Point Radknight. An old salty I have been admiring from afar for months - he of the headstand and effortless style - waved to me on Saturday and after I took a wave and stuffed it up, he called me over to tell me I was taking off in the wrong spot. I wildly gesticulated while saying, 'It drives me nuts! I'm in the wrong spot! I can't paddle hard enough! I pop up all wrong! Surely after two years it still can't be so hard!' He smiled and said, 'Come with me' and we paddled over to a section and he talked to me about the incoming sets and what to look for. It was awesome. He then asked my name and said, 'Well, Gill, paddle. Now.' and I was soon riding down the face of the wave of my life. I was boomshakalaka-ing all the way to shore and I could hear him cheering. Thanks, Rodney.

It makes me want to celebrate and buy one of these little numbers custom made by a lovely lass in Cornwall. Aren't they unreal? Pam Burridge meets Wonder Woman. Pow! Pow!

La Casa Residency - your beer $$ put to good use

 

During summer I'm sure all of us had a Corona at some point. And this gargantuan company has been putting their profits to good use by investing in the La Casa residency tucked away in Byron somewhere. 

I've put aside my cynicism and awareness of possibly paid appearance fees and shameless product placement (after all, I work in PR) to appreciate what they've been doing and the talent moving through la casa. It's pretty bloody impressive and I want to go to there - not that I'm in the same calibre as these peeps, but a girl can dream. Even Kelly 'Dolphin Eyes' Slater and Angus Stone have been hanging out, making music and whistling. Definitely a place I'd rather be (... goddamnit, it worked!)

Kelly & Angus from Corona Extra on Vimeo.