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A model idiot?
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Ever since I started surfing, I have felt like a numpty, a ningnong, a kook and ... Derek Zoolander. I just haven't been able to go left. I see a wave and even if it's a lovely left, I go right. Why? Because going left felt unnatural. Like not dancing every time I hear Beyonce. Nigh impossible.
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My longboarding hero, Kassia Meador, heading left
But five hours at the beach yesterday hanging with Betty Shazam and the Baberahams, tag teaming in and out of the water with puppy-minding and surfing, something happened and I went left.
I've been told you're not supposed to call your own wave but you know what... I always call it and I certainly did on my first left yesterday. I do any or all of the following: double-fist pump, shaka wave, yewwww and hi-five myself. Sure I look like a dork but guess who's having the best fun ever? Me.
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| I like to add fingerguns when on a left like this. Kassia keeps cool... because she is. |
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