Kassia Meador - my surfing hero
I haven't surfed in a coupla weeks and I'm started to feel a little crraaaaazy. Last week I was tap-tap-tapping away at my desk while friends were texting me saying Lorne was barrelling and 'who needs heaven when it's right here'. Ohh man!
Of course I missed the waves the next day too. And now my shoulder is stuffed again.
Sheesh. Sigh. No hi-fives.
I wish I could be a full-time surfer like Kassia Meador. My surfing hero.
A mate was feeling sorry for me today and suggested I watch some surfing to perk myself up - so I watched Kassia and feel much much happier. Love that lady's style.
Kassia was recently interviewed for Inertia and she said her philosophy is 'There are no coincidences, everything is as it's meant to be, and if you accept that, you can get through everything.'
Do I need to accept this eight month shoulder injury prohibiting me from surfing coinciding with me moving down the coast specifically to surf is the universe trying to tell me something? Something to do with slowing down?
Actually, who am I kidding, loads of people tell me to slow down all the time. After much navel gazing and drinking beers in the late afternoon sun in my backyard, I've realised I'm either an on or off person. I reckon it's time to try and find the middle ground.
This is going to be a challenge. So..
I'll try not to push myself too hard. Next time I'm in loads of pain maybe I won't paddle out anyway. As Kassia wisely says, 'At the end of the day it's just people riding pieces of foam on the water.'
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| Kassia makes riding a piece of foam on the water look pretty damn radical |
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