Surfing survival tips 101
Kohl Christenson at Cloudbreak. That's what I thought I was surfing when I was worked over. |
And this is from a dude, Kohl Christenson, who knows what he's talkin' about.
In my own special grommet-way I feel like I've experienced them in Gilbraham-sized sessions. Reading Kohl's tips had me clenching my bum with the memory of being tumbled around, running out of breath, and not knowing which way was up. By a 4ft bomby. I can barely fathom what it would be like in being held down in 20ft waves. Yowsers.
I feel my surfing has completely plateaued lately but the upside is that I have come to this zen-like spiritual acceptance and now don't get frustrated and antsy when I'm not doing what I think I should be doing out on the water. Hopefully this new attitude will take me to the next level, along with reinstating my Operation:Hot Bitch fitness regime (minus the zumba and reggaeton). C'mon Spring ... I'm ready.
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