It’s been a while since I wrote a blog post because even though I’ve been surfing my arse off, my ‘oh I’m just plateauing’ has turned into feeling like I was getting worse not better and the ole ego doesn’t like that. And I’ve been feeling pretty depressed about it. Ahh boo.
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| I had a giant camera thrown over my shoulder. Pity you can't see it. I look like a wigga. |
So my surfing has been more than ordinary but my enthusiasm is still off the dial and I've kept on going every weekend. This Easter meant one thing – Bells Beach Pro – and I was soooo pumped. A year ago I’d been surfing for but two months and was shocked at the amount of hot dudes this sport attracts when I headed to Bells. I’m glad I’ve stuck with it. Some say going to the Pro is like entering a ‘sausage forest’.*
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| A sausage forest |
Bells was blessed this year with beautiful waves, the hottest day in 50 years and Kelly Slater pulling a perfect 10. As Kelly was running down the beach to the final Roobs and I found ourselves at the bottom of the crowd – media, grommets and us. Kelly stopped and tried to find his way through the crowd and our eyes met. The world stopping turning as I fell into his deep blue eyes. I saw dolphins. Yes. Kelly Slater has dolphins frolicking in his eyes. It's beautiful in there.
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| Grommets |
Perhaps it was that moment of significant eye contact, perhaps it was meeting a new bunch of Seadogs in their 40s and 50s and having one of them tell me that being 36 was ‘yummy’, but somehow out of nowhere, I managed to catch the wave of my life on Easter Sunday – now and forever a special day for the God Squad and me.
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| I left Roobs to put on her wetty in the loos and she came out with it on... inside out |
I’ve been trying to work out how I managed it. Was it because I was at Anglesea, a beach I know so well? Was it because I was surfing alone so was carefree and not subconsciously worrying about what the Baberahams thought of my attempts? Was it because I’d watched the Seadogs surf Winkipop and was impressed by their effortless style? Or was it because I’d been dolphinised by Kelly? I have no idea. All know is I can’t wait for the big swell to come through and surf all through to next summer where maybe I'll find the courage to take them up on the invitation to go with them to Winkipop.
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| My new board - Duke Maku Loverlover. I'm in love. |
*I confess... it was me that said that.
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