'Fires of happiness, waves of gratitude' - The Dark Side of the Lens

In the midst of winter last year when I was feeling stoked that I was managing to brave the winter water for all of half an hour as I fumbled around trying to stand up, paddle out, avoid a smack in the face by an ice-cream headache inducing wave ... in short, do anything productive ... a friend of mine I went to film school with way back in the 90s told me she now understood why I'd fallen in love with surfing after she'd watched this film by Mickey Smith and Allan Wilson. (BTW, I reckon you should vote for it to win here) 

It's the kind of film that when I watch it the hairs on my arms stand on end. It makes me feel good to be alive - precisely the 'fires of happiness, waves of gratitude' feeling. It also makes me want to want to be more watchful and thoughtful and considered. And it also made me go and buy a 4/3 wetsuit. 

Today the forecast for Torquay is a sizable swell (for me anyways) with big, gusty onshore winds. And it's pouring with rain. Not ideal. We'd planned to go for a surf but given the conditions, I'm pretty happy to stay in my cozy bed and forgo the 'cup of concrete' that would usually be prescribed. Shitballs - I'm going to have to stock up on concrete for winter.

brekky in bed vs surfing in the rain