Summer surf sessions + Derek Zoolander breakthrough

A model idiot?
Ever since I started surfing, I have felt like a numpty, a ningnong, a kook and ... Derek Zoolander. I just haven't been able to go left. I see a wave and even if it's a lovely left, I go right. Why? Because going left felt unnatural. Like not dancing every time I hear Beyonce. Nigh impossible.

My longboarding hero, Kassia Meador, heading left

But five hours at the beach yesterday hanging with Betty Shazam and the Baberahams, tag teaming in and out of the water with puppy-minding and surfing, something happened and I went left. 

I've been told you're not supposed to call your own wave but you know what... I always call it and I certainly did on my first left yesterday. I do any or all of  the following: double-fist pump, shaka wave, yewwww and hi-five myself. Sure I look like a dork but guess who's having the best fun ever? Me.
I like to add fingerguns when on a left like this. Kassia keeps cool... because she is.

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