Surfing with Doodlebum whatever the weather

So I've been surfing with Doodlebum nearly every weekend since around September and we've decided to join forces not only in the surf but on the turf so she's going to fire up posts on Not Without My Do-Rag as well. Woopah!

Doodlebum ... take it away!

In the past year it’s only happened twice - making the rookie mistake of chasing after waves that just aren't there. 

We set off a couple of Sundays ago tired, a little bit emo and with high hopes of clearing our minds in the water. Instead, we were greeted with a surreal scene of 50 dudes bobbing like seals in a lake. Jan Juc did not deliver. The only thing it did deliver was a serving of fish and chips, and the impending guilt of wishing you had actually earned the feed. We set off back to Melbourne bummed and disheartened, a 3 hour round trip for 20 minutes of board time and still feeling a little emo. Not ideal.

I recently came across an interview with Beatrix, an elderly lady of great wisdom and style talking about the power of positive thinking - you actually have to inhabit positivity, not just think it. The amount of car time Gillbraham and I have clocked up together is substantial to say the least. But this is all a part of it. This surf journey is much more than the time spent in the water. It’s also the time spent getting there and back when we are each others' 'soundboards' for our dreams and concerns.

So, I told myself I could no longer be disappointed about Sunday. Thanks Beatrix. And Gerry Lopez. And hell, even Kelly Slater. (Ok, I added in the Kelly Slater bit.. sorry, D-bum!)

ONE WEEK LATER IN THE SURF ...

After our last trek’s disappointment we were pretty pumped to get in the waves last weekend whatever the conditions. Hungover or not… swell or not… offshore or not… whatever it was going to be we were going feel that aloha buzz of a good session, goddamnit.

As it turned out the waves were shithouse but we must have been oozing stoke (does that sound weird?) as everyone was on for a chat. Which was kinda odd.

Since I started surfing I’ve always wondered about the lack of chat between surfers.  I’ve talked about it a lot with the Baberahams, with the turf crew (as opposed to the surf crew) and lately with the odd seadog. I’ve got a few theories that I’ll write about some day but in short, I always thought there was something wrong with the dudes. Lately I’ve realised it might have something to do with me too (Really? You think, Gill??!).

Even though I don’t seem like it, I’m pretty shy, and striking up a conversation with a dude in a wetsuit is rather terrifying. To be honest I’d rather perve from afar and crack up my mates with inappropriate comments than attempt to talk with said surf babe who unlike me can actually ... surf.

A radical surf babe

But something has clicked in me and I’m now loving a chat in the carpark, at the lookout, walking down to the beach, on the waves. Anywhere! Everyone is friendly and tips have been given by the locals. Sure we’ve been asked if we were stand-up paddleboarders (No!), ‘Well, boogie boarders, then?’ (Nooooo!) but I’m not letting that offend us. We told each other the seadogs were just pulling our leg. Locals humour, right? Hopefully we’ll see them again when we’re ripping and wave hello. Aloha!